Dr. Martens is a British footwear brand with a legacy rooted in tradition, innovation, and cultural significance. Their story begins in 1901, when the Griggs family established their reputation for crafting sturdy, durable work boots in Wollaston, Northamptonshire, at the heart of England’s shoe industry. For six decades, Griggs’ footwear became synonymous with reliability and resilience, serving the working classes with practical, long-lasting boots.
The transformation of Dr. Martens into a global icon began in post-war Munich in 1945, when Dr. Klaus Maertens, a 25-year-old soldier, created a unique air-cushioned sole to aid his recovery from a broken foot. Partnering with Dr. Herbert Funk, a mechanical engineer, Maertens began producing these innovative shoes using disused military supplies. By 1947, their business was thriving, and by 1959, they sought to expand their reach by advertising their revolutionary footwear in overseas magazines.
Back in England, the Griggs family, led by Bill Griggs and his brothers Ray, Colin, and son Max, discovered Maertens’ air-cushioned sole in a trade magazine. They acquired an exclusive license and made several key modifications, including an altered heel, a distinctive yellow welt stitch, a two-tone grooved sole edge, and a unique sole pattern. The boots were branded as ‘Airwair’ and featured a black and yellow heel loop with the slogan “With Bouncing Soles,” inspired by Bill Griggs’ handwriting. The eight-holed 1460 Dr. Martens boot was officially launched on April 1st, 1960.
Initially, Dr. Martens boots were practical workwear, worn by postmen and factory workers. However, their journey took a dramatic turn when early multi-cultural, ska-loving skinheads adopted the boots as a symbol of British working-class style. Pete Townshend of The Who further cemented their status by wearing them as a badge of working-class pride and rebellion. This shift transformed Dr. Martens from a functional work boot into a subcultural essential.
Throughout the decades, Dr. Martens became a symbol of self-expression, embraced by diverse tribes, musicians, and free-thinking individuals. The brand’s adoption by various subcultures, from punk and goth to grunge and Britpop, solidified its place in youth culture. The simple 8-hole boot became a canvas for personalisation, with girls customising them and US hardcore musicians introducing the brand to American subcultures.
Dr. Martens’ connection to music is central to its identity. The brand’s resurgence in the 2000s, marked by collaborations with high fashion designers and the revival of hand-made Originals at the Cobbs Lane factory, reaffirmed its cultural relevance. Today, Dr. Martens continues to be celebrated for its unique alternative appeal and authenticity, standing as a badge of attitude and empowerment for those who value individuality and self-expression.